Carrots and Chard: The start of autumn cooking.
The change in the weather has been echoed by the change in
vegetables arriving in the veg share. As
a natural response to this my cooking here at home has changed, with refreshing
salads being replaced with comforting soups; richer umami flavours taking the
place of the fresh crisp tastes of summer.
Today’s lunch consisted of the leftovers of last night’s cheesy chard
tart and carrot and coriander soup. Both
are straightforward to make and seemed well matched to the sunny but cooler
early autumn day.
Carrot and coriander soup
A quick recipe inspired by one by James Tanner from Ready
Steady Cook, tweaked and multiplied up to feed four. It is better with home made vegetable stock
but I usually use the powdered one made by Marigold, made up slightly weaker
than recommended.
Olive oil
1 onion, chopped
5 large cloves of garlic, chopped finely or crushed
4 tsp coriander seeds
400g carrots, chopped
1 litre vegetable stock
60ml double cream
60ml plain yoghurt
A good handful fresh coriander, chopped roughly
- Start
by toasting your coriander seeds in a dry frying pan. I use a cast iron one for this job. All you need to do is put the seeds into
the dry pan and heat them until they start to turn a toasted colour,
release their fragrance and to jump about in the pan. Watch them like a hawk, they’ll burn in
seconds. Take them off, put them
into a pestle and mortar and bash them like mad until they go reasonably
powdery. How much you do this
depends on how large you mind the spices being in the final soup, bearing
in mind they soften as they cook. I
don’t mind a few slightly larger lumps of shell so just grind them until I
get bored with the job.
- Saute
the onion and garlic for a few minutes until they turn soften, then add
the coriander and cook a bit more until they start to smell gorgeous and
lemony. This is the reason I insist
on using whole spices rather than powdered ones, despite the extra
work. The fragrance is just
impossible to match with the powder, and you really can taste the
difference in the finished soup.
- Add
the carrots and the stock, bring to the boil and then turn the heat down a
bit, allowing the soup to simmer for a while – about 15 minutes should do
it.
- Take
the soup off the heat, and add the cream.
Allow it to cool a bit, then blitz thoroughly until the soup is
smooth and glossy. I like a stick
blender best for this job. I tend
to wait to season with salt and pepper until this stage so that I can
control the seasoning by tasting as I go.
- Add
the yoghurt and the chopped coriander leaf.
- Either
serve immediately, or if you’re eating it later make sure when you heat
the soup you don’t let it boil to avoid the risk of splitting.
Cheesy chard tart
Inspired by the recipe in Nigel Slater’s wonderful Tender,
but tweaked to accommodate my laziness.
This tart serves six in theory, but the two of us demolished it in two
sittings – perhaps partly because Richard ate a third of it in one go for
supper. It is actually best served cold,
but is also nice warm with a crisp green salad dressed with spring onion, lemon
juice and olive oil.
Chard, with its strong earthy taste, responds best to bold
flavours so I like to choose recipes that use strong cheeses or bacon. I admit to being a bit of a chard shirker so
the gentler treatments that rely on the unctuousness of cream are not for me,
but may be worth trying if you’re a big fan.
Medium sized leaves, about the size that have been appearing in the veg
share, are milder than the larger ones, and if you grow your own the tiny ones
are very nice in salads.
The recipe asks for Parmesan. There are several vegetarian alternatives to
this. The one by Bookhams marketed as Not Just a Pasta Cheese, previously
called Twineham Grange works
well. Nigel Slater suggests Pecorino or
Spenwood as alternatives. The latter is
a real artisan cheese and is made with vegetarian rennet, but I haven’t tried
it yet.
For the pastry
175g plain flour (I used half white, half wholemeal, which
gives a nice texture)
75g butter at room temperature
A pinch of salt
Half a teaspoon mustard powder
40g grated mature cheddar
A small bunch of thyme, leaves removed from the stalks
A little chilled water to bind
For the tart
About 200g medium sized chard leaves – washed well
2 large shallots sliced finely
50g mature cheddar, grated
40g parmesan, grated
2 large eggs
300ml double cream
- Start
by making the pastry. Put the
flour, mustard powder and salt into a bowl. Rub in the butter until you get a
breadcrumb-like consistency, then add the thyme leaves and the cheese and
mix in thoroughly. Add water
gradually until the pastry comes together.
Last time I needed 3-4 tablespoons, but it depends on the flour and
all sorts of other factors. Wrap
the pastry in clingfilm and allow it to chill for half an hour in the
fridge.
- Roll
out the pastry thinly on a floured surface. Put it into a flan tin about 25cm
diameter. (Against all advice I use a ceramic tart dish, which is supposed
to make the pastry soggy but doesn’t seem to in my experience). Chill again in the fridge for another 30
minutes. I know this seems like
overkill but the first chill is to allow the gluten to develop, so the
pastry is nice and elastic when rolling out rather than breaking up
horribly; and the second helps to stop the pastry shrinking when you cook it. Don’t bother if you don’t want to, but
don’t blame me if it doesn’t work properly.
- While
the pastry is chilling steam the chard until it’s wilted down. Allow it to cool a bit, then squeeze it
out to get rid of as much water as you can. If you don’t it will send the filling
watery. Chop the dried chard
roughly then mix the shallots in and season with salt and pepper.
- Pre-heat
the oven to 200oC/gas mark 6
- Blind
bake the pastry case for about 15 minutes until crisp and golden using
whichever method you prefer (line with foil or greaseproof and weigh down
with baking beans or use Delia’s method of stabbing the case all over with
a fork to prevent air getting trapped).
If you used foil or greaseproof remove it for the last five minutes
to give the pastry a chance to go crisp on the base.
- Put
in the chard/shallot mix, then scatter the mixed grated cheeses over the
top. Finally whisk together the
cream and eggs and pour over the whole tart.
- Return
to the oven for 20-25 minutes. When
it comes out try to cool for a while to give the filling a chance to set
properly.
If you serve it with salad this one works well. Go for simplicity so one or two types of
leaves, torn into bite sized chunks and washed thoroughly. I use my salad spinner to dry the leaves out
afterwards. Deeply unfashionable but by
far the neatest and most effective method I know of. Finely chop a couple of spring onions and put
into a jar with the juice of half a lemon, about three times the amount of
extra virgin olive oil and salt and pepper.
Put on the lid, shake like mad until emulsified then dress the salad
lightly.
Libby